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SnapStone Tile Installation Instructions
SnapStone Grout Instructions

Installation Instructions

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Floor Preparation

  • Remove existing carpeting, padding, base, or quarter round moldings. Do not remove existing resilient floor covering as it may contain asbestos. Please refer to the RFCI publication recommended work practices for removal of resilient floor coverings.

  • Identify high and low spots that are out of tolerance. High spots should be planed, and low spots should be filled. When leveling subfloor, use only portland-based fillers. Never use gypsum-based fillers as they will support mold growth.

  • Inspect floor for movement. If movement is caused by loose boards, secure them. If movement is caused by deflection, consult a carpenter for structural repair.

  • Check all door and appliance clearances as well as transition heights.

  • Cut or plane the bottom of doors to accommodate change in floor height. A tile has a height of 9/16".

  • Undercut door casings and jambs. This will allow tiles to move freely while also covering the cut edges. A scrap piece of tile can be used to guide the saw blade. This will help achieve the correct height for undercutting.

  • Sub-floor must be clean, smooth, dry, and structurally sound.
Installation

  • Temperature of installation should be maintained above 32° F (0° C) and below 110° F (43° C).

  • A 24-hour acclimation period is necessary if temperature variance from storage to jobsite is greater than 20° F (7° C).

  • All claims for defective product must be filed before the tile is installed. A careful visual inspection should be performed prior to installation.

  • Small cut pieces installed along the perimeter should be adhered using a premium construction adhesive (PL 400 or PL Premium).

  • If installed on stairs, tiles should be securely adhered using a premium construction adhesive (PL 400 or PL Premium). An overlapping stair nose is used to cover the edge.
Assembly

  • Tiles can be interlocked using a white-headed rubber mallet and tapping block. Using a tapping block is optional.

  • Tiles may be installed one at a time, or in rows.

  • System is non-directional, and can be installed to the right or to the left.

  • A tile cannot be installed between two other tiles.

  • Ensure interlocking tabs are fully engaged.

  • If tiles prove difficult to interlock together, mix water and dish soap in a spray bottle and moisten tabs.

  • Grout joint intersections should form a perfect cross. This should be checked throughout the installation, and after the field tile has been installed. Adjustments can be made by using a white-headed rubber mallet and tapping the misaligned row in the appropriate direction.

  • Tile rows can be shifted for perfect alignment using a rubber mallet and pull bar.

  • Tiles can be disengaged in 2 ways:
    1. Lifting one tile upward until tiles disconnect.
    2. Placing the rubber-coated pull bar in the grout joint and twisting until tiles separate.
Layout/Patterns

  • Installs in straight, diagonal, staggered, or mixed size patterns.

  • Installation can begin in the center of the room or at a wall. As with a traditional tile installation, the layout should be planned so the cut pieces along the perimeter appear in an aesthetically pleasing manner.

  • When beginning an installation along a wall, remove the tabs to allow for the ¼" expansion gap. Tabs can be removed using a wet saw, tin snip, or rubber mallet.

  • It may be advantageous to begin an installation at a doorway or underneath an undercut.

  • Due to the shade variation associated with porcelain, tiles should be mixed from several cartons as installed. This will help ensure proper color blending throughout the installation.
Marking/Cutting

  • Always follow tool manufacturer safety requirements and use appropriate eye and ear Protection.

  • Tiles may be cut using a wet saw, tile cutter, or angle grinder with a diamond blade.

  • A ¼" gap is required along the perimeter to allow for expansion and contraction.

  • When marking cuts:
    • Step 1: Measure distance between wall and the field tile, then deduct ½" This factors in ¼" for the grout joint plus ¼" for the expansion gap.
    • Step 2: Mark the measurement on a tile, and proceed with cut. The protective slip sheet can be used for determining the size of tile cuts. Simply place a sheet where the tile is installed, and fold it where cuts are needed. The folding sheet can be used as a cutting template.

  • When using a wet saw, be sure to change the water often. Shavings from the plastic tray float, and will clog the water pump.

  • After cutting the tile, set it with the cut edge facing down to allow the water to drain properly.

  • When cutting tile using a tile cutter:
    • Step 1: Snap the porcelain
    • Step 2: Separate the porcelain, and run a utility knife across the plastic
    • Step 3: Snap the plastic tray

  • L cuts can be made using a wet saw or angle grinder.

  • Curved, circular, or U cuts can be made using an angle grinder.

  • Holes can be drilled using a high quality carbide designed hole cutter or diamond bit.

  • Once cut, a tile can be installed along the perimeter using a rubber-coated pull bar.
Grouting

Preparation for Grouting

  • Use a margin trowel to thoroughly stir grout.
  • Liquid maybe present at the surface of the grout when opened. This is from settling. Stir liquid into the grout using a margin trowel - be sure to mix through to the bottom of the bucket.
  • Please note: SnapStone Flexible Grout is measured by weight, not volume. Extra space is left in the bucket to allow for stirring.
  • Working time of grout is 2 to 3 hours at 70°F (21°C). Working time is affected by many variables including surface and room temperatures and humidity. For example, warmer climates will shorten working time, while colder conditions will extend working time.
  • DO NOT add any water, liquid or other material to SnapStone Flexible Grout!
  • Prepare one 5 gallon (18.93 liters) bucket of cleaning water.

Grouting

  • Use a hard, rubber-edged grout float. Do not use a foam-edged grout float.
    Step #1: With float at a 45 degree angle, spread SnapStone Flexible Grout diagonally, pressing firmly to ensure joints are filled completely.
    Step #2: With float at a 90 degree angle, pull diagonally across joints removing excess grout from tile using the edge of the float like a squeegee. Use caution not to pull grout out of filled joints.
  • Inspect grout joints and pack additional grout if needed.
  • SnapStone Flexible Grout should not be used to fill in the expansion gap along the perimeter of the room. In an environment exposed to moisture such as a bathroom, a caulk should be used to seal the perimeter.

Initial Cleaning

  • Remove grout residue AS YOU WORK, particularly in warm or dry climates. If working alone, never grout more than 10 square feet before cleaning.
    Step #1: With damp sponge, lightly wipe grout joints and tile surface in a circular motion, loosening grout residue while make the joints smooth.
    Step #2: Wipe the loosened grout residue diagonally rinsing sponge after every pass; use each side of sponge only once between rinsing.
  • Check work as you clean. Repair any low spots with additional grout.
  • Do not wash too vigorously - just a light motion will do. The best grout joint is one that completely fills the void up to the edge of the tile.

Final Cleaning

  • After 24 hours, use a sponge and water to remove any remaining grout residue - this will have a shiny appearance on the surface of the tile.
  • Allow cleaned areas to dry and inspect the floor again. If grout residue still remains, spray Krud Kutter® Original on the affected area, wiping any excess spray from grout joints. Let it set for 1-2 minutes, then scrub the tile surface.
  • Protect finished surface from light traffic for at least 24 hours at 70°F (21°C).
  • A complete cure requires 72 hours at 70°F (21°C) and 50% relative humidity.
  • Low spots can be touched up after 24 hours.
  • Never cover grout during curing.
  • Do not expose grout to stains or cleaners for 7 days.
  • No sealing required.
Trims and Transitions

  • Base and/or quarter round moldings should be installed to cover the perimeter spaces.

  • A T-molding is used when transitioning from your tile to a floor of similar height.

  • A wood or metal reducer is used to transition to a vinyl or concrete floor.

  • A transition molding is not needed at a carpet edge. Tuck carpet between tack strip and your tile.

  • A flush wood, overlapping vinyl or overlapping metal stair nose molding is needed at stair edge.
Care and Maintenance

  • Regular sweeping or vacuuming and prompt cleanup of spills will ensure your floor looks its best.

  • For deep cleaning, or to address mess or sticky spills, a citrus based cleaner such as 409® Orange Cleaner may be used.

  • Enzyme, vinegar and steam cleaners are not recommended.
Repair & Replace

  • Remove grout from perimeter of broken tile

  • Cut the tabs at 3 of the 4 surrounding sides of the broken tile

  • Remove broken tile

  • Cut the upward tabs of the new tile on 3 of 4 sides

  • Apply a layer of premium construction adhesive to the back of the new tile

  • Place the new tile into position, interlocking the side with remaining tabs

  • Apply pressure to ensure full adhesion

  • Once adhesive cures, apply flexible grout

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